Newsletter

There's no doubt pets are important family members, but some pet owners - and pet-related businesses - are going to great lengths to make sure their furry family members are involved in most any special occasion, from weddings to religious observances.

For some pet owners, that means including their pooch in the wedding party. According to a recent USA Today report, a growing number of pet owners are including their dogs in their wedding ceremonies. Sometimes, the dogs sit in only for wedding portraits, but in other cases, dogs have walked their people down the aisle or acted as four-legged ring bearers.

"Many people think of their pets as family members, and they wouldn't think of having a special day like this without that member," Celina Bojorquez told USA Today. Bojorquez co-owns Beverly Hills Mutt Club, a specialty boutique that supplies upscale threads for pampered pets, including tuxedos, chic dresses and even designer collars and leads. Bojorquez told USA Today her shop has fitted countless canines with the latest couture (everything from silk ties to a gold harness and leash) for their owner's big day.

A dog dressed up and ready for the big day!

Adding a dog to the already hectic environment of a large wedding may seem difficult (dogs are dogs, after all, and even the best behaved dog can act up suddenly), but pet owners who include their dogs in their nuptials say they wouldn't have it any other way. "The people I loved would be there, and there was no way Bowser wouldn't be," Kacyee English told USA Today. Bowser, an Australian shepherd, was the ring-bearer for English's wedding and delivered the ring with a wagging tail and no problems.

Including pets in major family activities isn't limited to big events like weddings. The New York Times recently reported on a growing trend in the pet food industry: kosher foods for dogs and cats. Evanger's Dog & Cat Food Company, an Illinois-based pet food company. Evanger's has sold kosher foods for dogs and cats since 2003. This past spring, they hosted a special "Passover Seder for Dogs" at a pet store in Chicago.

Why kosher food? While dogs and cats aren't tasked with keeping kosher, their owners are, and that can present problems during Passover. During the Passover week, kosher homes must be free of grains - which are often a major ingredient in most pet foods. In addition, many people who keep kosher year round believe that pet foods fall under prohibition of combining dairy and meat. Holly Sher, owner of Evanger's, got the idea for kosher pet food in 2002, after she saw a neighbor feeding her dog in the garage during Passover, since non-kosher food could not be in the house. Evanger's offers thirty varieties of dog and cat foods that have been certified as kosher by the Chicago Rabbinical Council.

Elvis Best, a Parson Russell Terrier, reading his Arf-Torah Portion at his Bark Mitzvah
(Photo courtesy of The Doctors Channel/Creative Commons License)

Some pet owners do more than just keep their pets kosher - "bark mitzvahs" for dogs have become a popular trend among Jewish pet owners. "Bark mitzvah" videos can be found on YouTube and some companies now offer tiny yarmulkes and prayer shawls for dogs - even more proof that family events once limited to humans are now going to the dogs.

If you have ever had a cavity or dental work done, you know it can be uncomfortable and inconvenient. For humans, caring for our teeth is something we do almost automatically. But since cats are unable to brush their own teeth and, like humans, do not have a natural, built-in way to keep teeth clean, it falls on you to maintain your cat's dental health. The best way to ensure the overall dental health of your cat is to establish a timetable for routine dental check ups with your veterinarian. Veterinary research indicates that dental disease, in its various forms, is the number one health issue in feline medicine. About 70 percent of cats over the age of three have some kind of dental problem. Fortunately for your cat, dental disease is preventable!

At about four to six months of age, kittens start losing their baby teeth and form their permanent teeth. An adult cat, after losing all of his baby teeth, should have 30 teeth: canines, incisors, pre-molars and molars. Once your cat has his adult teeth, dental exams should be done regularly. Toothaches and dental problems can be extremely painful and may cause your cat to stop eating or show symptoms of illness. Waiting until this point can often create undue stress and discomfort for your kitty.

Untreated dental problems can also lead to larger systemic problems in your cat, due to oral bacteria entering the blood stream and damaging the kidneys, heart and liver. Specific problems can include:

• Plaque
• Tartar Build-up
• Feline Odontoclastic Resorptive Lesions (FORLs) - the feline cavity counterpart
• Lost or Broken Teeth
• Gingivitis
• Periodontal Disease
• Stomatitis
• Oral Cancer

Since cats very rarely get cavities, they are much more prone to gum disease and excessive tartar build-up. Food particles and bacteria collect along the gum line and if ignored, form plaque. When plaque builds up and is not removed promptly, your cat's saliva combines with the plaque to form tartar. Irritating to the gums, the tartar causes an inflammation called gingivitis. Can you see the progression? The two most common dental diseases, gingivitis and periodontitis, can be prevented through the regular removal of plaque. Unfortunately for most cats, while gingivitis is reversible, late stage periodontal disease is not, and can cause further dental problems that most cats find painful. If diagnosed and treated by your veterinarian, it can be slowed or stopped.

Recognizing the signs of dental disease is crucial as part of your cat's overall health. Symptoms may include:

• Decreased appetite or complete loss of appetite
• Drooling
• Bad breath
• Weight loss
• Yellow, brown, or black teeth
• Swollen, red, or bleeding gums
• Blood in the saliva
• Receding gums
• Missing or broken teeth

There are other signs of dental problems that may be more subtle. Your cat may choose softer foods, play with chew toys less and decline crunchy treats. You may also notice your cat chewing on one side of his mouth more than the other. Your cat may chew less in general, causing him to vomit undigested, poorly chewed food. Increased salivation, pawing at or rubbing the face are indicators of oral pain. If you notice any of these signs or think that your cat may be presenting signs of dental disease or oral pain that are not listed here, contact your veterinarian for a complete dental exam. Often the cause of the discomfort and pain can be stopped if not reversed with immediate care.

Dental Procedures

Dental prophylaxis (teeth cleaning and polishing) is the most common dental procedure done on cats. Generally, the process takes about an hour, and your cat can usually go home at the end of the day. Though general anesthesia is required for any kind of veterinary dental work, the risks are minimal. Risks involved with general anesthesia can be minimized if pre-anesthesia screening tests are performed. Once your cat has been anesthetized, the veterinarian performs a complete oral examination and begins cleaning the teeth. Dental radiographs may be taken to asses the extent of any damage. Tartar is removed by hand scaling and through the use of an ultrasonic instrument. After all the tartar and plaque has been removed, the teeth are polished. If any extractions are necessary, they are usually done at this time.

Home Care

Now that your cat has sparkling teeth and improved health, it is important for you to continue at home. Home care is essential to the oral health of your cat and needs to be part of a regular routine.

• Oral Exams: Look for warning signs of gum disease such as bad breath, red and swollen gums, any plaque or tartar around the gum line and pain or bleeding when you touch the gums or mouth. Any discolored, fractured or missing teeth should also be noted. Should you notice any bumps or masses within or around your cat's mouth, call your veterinarian for a check-up.
• Brushing: Brush your cat's teeth at least once a week. There are a number of conventional brushing kits available. The kits generally include a finger brush, a small pet toothbrush and special toothpaste. You should never use human toothpaste as it is too foamy and requires rinsing. By routinely brushing and massaging your cat's teeth and mouth, he should get accustomed to your fingers in and around his mouth. There are also a variety of ways to help your cat enjoy having his teeth brushed. A little tuna juice on the brush goes a long way. Or, make the brushing an integral part of a daily snuggle session. Whichever way works best for your cat, the necessity of brushing his teeth as preventive care cannot be over stated.
• Food Choices: Studies have shown that hard kibbles are slightly better at keeping plaque from accumulating on the teeth. There are also special treats designed specifically for general dental hygiene. Consult your veterinarian about special foods or treats that may be appropriate for your cat.

A greater awareness of the dangers of dental disease contributes significantly to the early recognition and prevention of dental problems in cats. Since periodontal disease may ultimately have a serious impact on your cat's well-being, routinely checking your cat's teeth and mouth at home, as well as scheduling regular check-ups with your veterinarian, are very important. Recent advances in veterinary dentistry, combined with the cooperative efforts of cat owners, make caring for your cat's oral health an easy and wise decision.

The most important thing to remember in training a new puppy is this: puppies and dogs learn best by being praised when they do the right thing. They rarely learn by being punished when they do the wrong thing. House training is challenging, but can be made easier if you follow these basic dos and don'ts...and stick to them.

DO:
Keep in mind that a puppy is the equivalent of a human baby and has to eliminate frequently. Take the puppy out every two hours (by the clock) during normal waking hours, in addition to immediately after eating, waking and playing. It will also need to go out right before being bedded down for the night.

Pick the puppy up and take it to the same place each time. Praise and reward the puppy with a small treat immediately after it urinates or defecates in the designated place.

Allow the puppy to "go" several more times before bringing it in. Puppies don't have the ability to eliminate everything in their bladder and bowels on the first squat. If you bring it in prematurely, chances are you'll end up with an unwanted puddle or pile.

Make a loud noise to startle the puppy if you catch him in the act of eliminating in an improper place - this will make his body contract, and usually stop mid-stream - scoop him up and take him to the designated place to finish eliminating.

Thoroughly clean accident areas with a disinfectant and/or odor neutralizer.

Feed the puppy at regular intervals. This makes it much easier to regulate bowel movements and predict when it has to defecate.

Keep the puppy close to you when you are home. Confine it with a gate, or keep it on a leash that can be attached to your belt or slipped under the leg of a chair or table. This makes it easier to keep an eye on the puppy, and monitor when it has to go out.

Utilize crate training.

Be patient and consistent, and make your puppy feel like it is the best puppy in the world when it eliminates in the right place!

As important as it is to know the right things, it is equally important to know the wrong things to do for housebreaking your puppy. The "wrong" things not only hinder your house training efforts, but can cause permanent unwanted behavior. Remember, puppies and dogs learn by being praised when they do the right thing, not by being punished when they do the wrong thing.

Don't:
Reprimand or punish the puppy when it has an accident. Puppies don't have the ability to understand that they are "in trouble" because they went in the house. This only frightens your puppy and makes it think that the act of urinating or defecating in itself is bad.

Take the puppy over to it's "mess" and put his face in it or show it to him. This is meaningless to the puppy, and again only frightens or confuses it. Furthermore, their train of thought is very short, and it will not understand the message you are trying to send.

Put the puppy outside by itself to eliminate. If you are not there to praise it immediately after it goes, it will not learn that it is supposed to urinate and defecate outside. If you wait to reward it when it comes back in the house, it will think that coming back to the house is "good," not because it went to the bathroom outside. Remember, their train of thought is very short!

Have unrealistic expectations of your puppy. Puppies don't have the ability to "hold" their bladder and bowels for extended periods of time. On the average, during waking hours, they don't have the ability to hold for longer than three to four hours until they are six months old.

Bring the puppy in immediately after it goes. It takes several "squats" for them to eliminate everything in their bladder and bowels.

Feed irregularly or feed excessive amounts of treats. A treat only has to be the size of a pea, and should only be used to reward good behavior. When house training puppies, it is important that they associate urinating or defecating outside with the yummy treat that they are going to get. If treats are given "for free" then they don't develop the motivation to do the right thing.

Lose your temper, use corporal punishment, or loud verbal reprimands when the puppy slips up - because it will.

This is all part of the house training process. Your puppy's progress depends largely on your patience and consistency.

On July 30, Procter & Gamble Pet Care division expanded its July 25 pet food recall to include additional veterinary formulas and some specialized Eukanuba dry pet food products as a precautionary measure. The original recall, just five days earlier, involved Iams feline renal dry food formulas. Although no illnesses have been reported, the possibility of salmonella contamination prompted P&G to recall the following dry pet food brands:

-- Iams Veterinary Dry Formulas: All dry sizes and varieties, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

-- Eukanuba Naturally Wild: All dry sizes and varieties, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

-- Eukanuba Pure: All dry sizes and varieties, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

-- Eukanuba Custom Care Sensitive Skin: All dry sizes, “Best Buy” dates: 01Jul10 - 01Dec11; All UPC Codes

These products are manufactured in one specialized facility where testing by the Food and Drug Administration detected salmonella. As a precaution, P&G is recalling the products voluntarily in cooperation with the FDA. The contamination is limited to this facility, but affects all the products listed above.

Consumers who purchased the specific dry pet foods listed should discard them. People handling dry pet food can become infected with salmonella, especially if they have not thoroughly washed their hands after touching the products or containers. Salmonella can also be transferred to surfaces in contact with the products.

Pets infected with salmonella may have decreased appetite, fever and abdominal pain. Left untreated, pets may become lethargic and develop diarrhea or bloody diarrhea, fever and vomiting. Even healthy pets can become carriers and infect other animals or humans.

Consumers may receive product refunds by calling Procter & Gamble toll-free at 877-340-8823.

About two weeks before the kittens are due, a nesting box (or queening box) should be introduced to the expectant mother. (see article on Gestation in Cats) This box should be made from a washable material and located in a warm and secluded area. The bottom of the box should be lined with an absorbent material that can be changed frequently. Newspapers, towels, or clean rags make excellent bed liners.

The first stage of labor may last anywhere from several hours to an entire day (24 hours). The queen is restless, fidgety, and usually refuses to eat. The expectant mother may pace about the house or begin digging in the queening box. Abdominal contractions signal the end of this period and the beginning of active labor.

Straining of the stomach muscles (contractions) marks the beginning of the second phase of labor. As the mother continues to strain, less time elapses between contractions. Generally within 15 minutes to one hour after contractions begin, a fluid-filled sac appears at the vaginal opening. This sac surrounds the first kitten.

After several contractions, the first kitten is born. The time interval between successive kittens can range anywhere from 30 minutes to 2 hours. Some experienced mothers are able to complete the entire birthing process in 30 minutes.

Generally when each kitten is born, it is enclosed in a membrane or sac. The mother usually licks the kitten's face and breaks the sac. If this sac is not immediately broken by the mother, human intervention is required. The sac must be opened, and the kitten's face must be rubbed. Rubbing the kitten's face with a clean cloth is an excellent method to stimulate breathing. Sometimes the kitten is born without a membrane or sac. If this occurs, the sac will follow the kitten, arriving together with the umbilical cord.

There are two normal positions for delivery. The kittens can come out "head first" or "rear first". A "rear first" delivery is generally more difficult than a "head first" delivery.

Human intervention is required when a kitten is lodged in the birth canal. When this occurs (and the mother is not able to expel the kitten herself), the mother must be restrained and gentle traction applied to the kitten. The kitten is grasped with a clean dry towel and pulled in a downward position, toward the mother's feet. When a kitten is lodged in the birth canal for a considerable amount of time, it is usually born dead.

A greenish-black discharge occurs between births. This discharge is normal and is often blood-tinged. If a reddish discharge occurs at the beginning of labor, and the expectant mother strains for more than one hour without delivering kittens, immediate veterinary attention is required.

After each kitten is born, the remaining portion of the sac should be removed from it's face. Any mucus surrounding the nostrils should be cleared away. Kittens should be dried with a clean towel and rubbed in order to stimulate breathing. Using a fine-diameter thread, each umbilical cord should be tied about one inch from the kitten's belly. The cord is cut on the far side of the knot, and the remaining stump (with the cord) is dipped into a white iodine solution. If the kittens are similar looking, it is best to number each one with a permanent marker.

Nursing Kittens

When the mother is relaxed and she settles down with her kittens, it is safe to assume that the birthing process is over. A small amount of vaginal bleeding is normal and this often continues for 2 or 3 days. If bleeding seems heavy or continues beyond this period, veterinary attention is required.

Edgar and Nina Otto lost their beloved dog, Sir Lancelot, in January 2008, when he died of cancer. On January 26, 2009, a little more than a year after Lancelot passed away, the Ottos were reunited once again with their best friend. That's when a 10-week old puppy named Lancey, cloned from Sir Lancelot's genetic material, was delivered to their home in Boca Raton, Florida. Lancey (his full name is Lancelot Encore) is more than just a cute yellow Labrador pup - he is the first commercially-cloned dog in the United States.

BioArts International cloned Lancey as part of its Best Friends Again program. The Ottos were one of five families to bid and win an auction held by BioArts International in July for a chance to clone a family dog. When Sir Lancelot died in 2008, the Ottos stored his DNA; after winning the auction, the DNA was shipped to the Sooam Biotech Research Foundation in South Korea, which provides cloning services to BioArts. Lancey was born on Nov. 18, 2008 and came to the U.S. on Jan. 25, 2009 after being weaned from his surrogate mother.

Lancelot Encore, the first commercially-cloned dog.
Photo courtesy of Best Friends Again

Lancey is genetically identical to Sir Lancelot, much like a latter-born twin. While clones largely resemble their genetic forebears, similarities in behavior and personality vary, as a pet's personality is influenced by a variety of factors. During the cloning process, cells from the genetic donor are taken and inserted into an enucleated egg (that is, the nucleus is removed and discarded) of a female from the same species. Electricity is used to fuse the donor cell nucleus to the enucleated egg. Next, chemicals are used to cause the resulting embryo to divide as normal. Once the embryo is successfully produced, it is transferred to a surrogate mother, where the embryo develops as normal. Eventually, the surrogate births the cloned puppy.

According to BioArts chairman Lou Hawthorne, five other clients are scheduled to receive a clone of their four-legged family member in the next six months. Pet cloning remains controversial, with critics concerned about the ethics of cloning, especially in light of the large number of shelter animals in need of homes. However, BioArts maintains that its research into cloning can reduce pet overpopulation by contributing to the research of low-cost drug-based contraceptives. BioArts also believes that cloning research can help eventually repopulate endangered species and improve working dog breeding programs.

The Ottos already share their home with a number of pets, including eight other dogs and it cost the Ottos $155,000 to clone their best friend. But the price was completely worth it, according to Nina Otto. "Sir Lancelot was the most human of any dog we've ever had," Otto said in a press release about Lancey's arrival. "He was a prince among dogs."

For anyone traveling outside the United States with pets:

• Call the appropriate embassy in Washington to confirm the entry requirements for your pet(s). Some embassies provide forms printed in English and in the host language for your veterinarian to complete. Some countries do not permit importation, or have long quarantine requirements.
• Check the requirements to see how close to departure the required veterinary examination, vaccinations and tests must be completed.
• Arrange with your veterinarian for required vaccinations and certificates.

Certification requirements vary from country to country. Some countries simply require the examining veterinarian to be licensed in the state of origin. In this case, the veterinarian's examination statement does not need USDA certification. Some countries accept a standard letterhead health certificate and rabies certificate issued by a licensed veterinarian and endorsed by the USDA. Other countries require that your pet be examined by a federally accredited veterinarian and that a United States Interstate and International Certificate for Health Examination for Small Animals (AHPIS Form 7001) be issued by the examining veterinarian and endorsed by the USDA. (Since August 1994, only a federally accredited veterinarian can sign this form.) Call the embassy to determine the exact requirements before making an appointment with a veterinarian. Also, check the airline, as there have been cases where a country does not require a certification but the airline does.

The timetable for obtaining examination statements and certifications can be very tight. Plan well in advance to be sure all paperwork is completed in time for your departure date. You may send your paperwork by mail or courier, along with a rabies certificate, the appropriate fee for service and a self-addressed stamped envelope or a pre-paid Federal Express envelope (if you are short of time) for return to you. Make sure that the veterinarian's name is legible and include a contact person with a daytime telephone number.

If you are planning to travel outside the US with your pet, you need to contact your local Veterinary Services office.

If you have a relatively uncomplicated plane flight, taking your pet along with you might be the best solution. Even if your pet is on the same flight as you, the appropriate documentation is still necessary. Ask your travel agent or call the airlines for price information.

If you are planning to ship your pet, reserve air space as early as possible. Be sure to schedule your pet's arrival on a weekday and not on a weekend, as it is usually necessary for animals to be cleared by a veterinarian or health inspector upon arrival.

Provide a sturdy, leak-proof crate (lined with absorbent material such as newspaper) that is large enough for the animal to stand, lie down, or turn around, but not so large that the animal can be battered around in rough weather. Most pet stores sell shipping crates in various sizes.

Pet Shipping Crate

SHIPPING OF PETS CHECKLIST

• Your pet should become acclimated to the crate by having practice sessions. Be sure the pet has a comfortable pad to lie on and a few familiar toys. A leash should also be included inside the crate.
• Even if your pet is microchipped, put identification tags that include an emergency phone number on your pet's collar.
• Print your name and destination address clearly on the shipping crate. Include your pet's name so that attendants can talk to him. If your pet has special needs or habits (bites or growls at strangers) include that information. You might want to list this information in other languages as well. In case your pet gets lost or needs to be identified, you should carry a photo with you.
• Feed your pet a very light meal about six hours before shipping. Give water up until two hours before departure. A water dish attached to the the crate should be provided. The water dish should be conveniently located so an attendant can provide water at stopovers without being bitten. Send dry food along if the trip is long. If you send canned food, fasten an opener and dish to the crate in a cloth or mesh bag with feeding instructions clearly marked on the crate.
• Do not tranquilize your pet without your veterinarian's approval. A tranquilized pet can injure himself more easily than a non-tranquilized animal.
• Exercise your pet just before shipping.
• If your pet is traveling with you, make sure you have a decent amount of time between connecting flights. This way, it's more likely that he is going to be transfered to your connecting flight.
• If there is a delay, the airline may kennel the pets. Some airlines have kennel facilities while other do not. State on your airway bill that your animal is to be taken to the animal port if there is a delay or stopover.
• Arrange to have your pet picked up immediately upon arrival. Airline facilities for pets may be limited or nonexistent.

Quitting smoking can be difficult, but according to the results of a new study, pets may be the incentive some smokers need to kick the habit. A study conducted by the Henry Ford Health System's Center for Health Promotion and Disease Prevention found that smokers who own pets reported they would be more likely to quit if provided with information about the dangers of secondhand smoke for pets.

The study was based on a web-based survey of 3,293 pet owners. Among the survey respondents, 50% were either current smokers or lived with at least one smoker. While taking the survey, many of the smokers and non-smokers indicated they would be interested in receiving information about quitting smoking.

The results are good news, both for pets and pet owners trying to quit smoking. While the effects of secondhand smoke on humans are well known, studies have also found that secondhand smoke can cause health problems in pets. Lymphoma in cats and nasal and lung cancer in dogs have been linked to secondhand smoke. Additionally, secondhand smoke has been identified as a possible cause of allergic reactions in dogs, eye disease and respiratory problems in birds and oral carcinoma in cats, according to the Henry Ford Health System.

Most of all, the study provides further proof of how devoted pet owners are to their best friends. While pet owners who smoke may not think twice about their own health when lighting up, it's clear that many are thinking about their pet's health and taking that into consideration when they smoke.

Currently, about 63 percent of U.S. households (about 71.1 million homes) include a pet as a member of the family. About a fifth of all pet owners are current cigarette smokers.